Climbing on the Rock
The climbing at Enchanted Rock is similar to that of many granite areas in the United States. The potassium-felspar-rich granite has a porphyritic crystalline texture; many crystals measure as large as one or two inches. These large crystals enable spectacular face climbs on steep rock and make crack climbing a joy for those who love pain. Smoother granite requiring extreme friction is also common. Most climbs in the park are in the one rope-length variety, but many of the best face climbs are just over a rope length. The Shield in the center of the Backside provides many of the most classic face routes, covering a wide range of difficulties and commitment. The best crack climbs are often found on the surrounding smaller domes, with Buzzard's Roost having the highest quality rock. Many, however, prefer the Triple Cracks because of their classic character. All parts of the park offer superb bouldering, with Lunch Rock in Echo Canyon being the favorite place because of its central location.
Excerpt from
The Dome Drivers Manual
by
James Crump, Robert Price & Scott Harris
©1990 by Big Fun Publications
